JOURNAL
A Toast to the Host
In the sometimes-overwhelming flurry that is life, few things bring us more joy than an old-fashioned dinner party; generous flows of natural wine, artfully crafted home-cooked meals that fill our homes with aromas fragrant enough to be bottled, and taking a moment to slow down, gather around a table, and spend time with those we cherish the most. We asked a few of our dear friends and favorite people—who, lucky for us, happen to be fluent in the art of dinner parties—to share a few tidbits of hostessing wisdom. This is what they had to say…
Cat Chen
How would you describe your hostessing style? What makes a party great?
A great party is one where your guests feel right at home, their glasses are always filled, and they leave with full bellies and sore cheeks. If I’m hosting at home for a night that’s been on the calendar, I am a planner through and through. This Capricorn/Virgo cannot help herself! This list might seem a bit crazy, but it’s my way of staying organized. I like to be super present when my guests arrive, so here are a few things I always do:
1-2 days ahead: Get flowers for the house. They take a day or two to open up.
Morning of: Set the table. Decide which platters to use and put sticky notes on them.
Day of: Prep and cook anything I can so I can avoid time in the kitchen when guests arrive. Also, I clean along the way and keep the kitchen as tidy as possible.
45 minutes before guests arrive: Get dressed.
20 minutes before guests arrive: Light candles on the dining table, kitchen island, powder room.
15 minutes before: Set out light bites.
What inspired you to get into winemaking?
I grew up watching my father run our vineyard since 2000. I’ve recently taken over the reins and run our property full-time. I’ve been learning about wine through osmosis since I was 10 years old, but now, it’s my full-time job! I manage our vineyard in Paso Robles and work with local winemakers to sell a majority of our grapes. I also started my own label, Dulan Wine, which is all about intentional sipping and bringing a focus on old-world style wines. Our wines are made from 60+ year old vines and it’s important for me to share the intricacies and amount of time that it takes to make our wines. For example, it takes upwards of three years from harvest to finally enjoy a bottle. It’s been an absolute labor of love, learning along every twist and turn.
I chose the name Dulan, a Taiwanese village on the Southeastern shore of the island that holds a special place in my father's and my hearts. When people ask me what Dulan means, I get to tell them about Taiwan — the culture, the food, the landscape—and nothing makes me feel more proud.
“Dumplings are for gathering and celebration. They feed the soul, they make you smile. They are meticulously made with love. It’s simple… dumplings equals happiness.”
- CAT CHEN, OWNER OF DULAN WINES
You’re known amongst your friends for your dumpling parties. Tell us a bit more about that tradition and what it means to you.
Some of my fondest memories in the kitchen are folding dumplings with my family. We’d sit around the table, and I’d watch my grandma, mama, and aunts fold the most perfect dumplings and I’d try to figure out how to make them as pretty as possible. As the years went on, my mama would make dumplings for my friends and me anytime we came home from college or on my quick trips home from New York. It quickly became the only dish all my friends requested on our visits, and now, these dumplings remind everyone of my sweet mama. My dumpling dinners are a way to keep my mama’s spirit alive and I know she’d be proud. The dumplings take quite some time to make and pinch by hand, which to me, means they’re made with a whole lot of love. Preparing and cooking is my meditation. To me, it’s soothing and calming. But the most enjoyable part to me is sharing it and watching someone take that first bite. There’s nothing that brings me more joy than nourishing my friends and family with a meal. It’s my love language. I especially love cooking dishes that my friends don’t get to eat often, and my mama’s dumpling recipe hits the spot every time. Dumplings are for gathering and celebration. They feed the soul, they make you smile. They are meticulously made with love. It’s simple… dumplings = happiness.
Do you have a go-to hostessing outfit?
It really depends on the occasion, but I love getting dressed up. A flowy dress is always a go-to.
Kate Berry
What is one thing a good dinner party cannot be without?
Fun. It could be pretty, the food could be good, the lighting could be just so, but if there’s no laughter, joy, or ease, it’s just a dinner party.
You’re attending someone else’s dinner party. What are you bringing?
This year, it’s Domino x Heather Taylor Home napkins, or wine.
You just designed a line of linens with Heather Taylor Home–how does a tablescape play into your hosting?
Surprisingly enough, the tablescape is the last thing I think of. I think about who I’m having over, the food I think they’d enjoy, and what I want to make. Then, I think about the table setting. Heather and I designed a collection that is festive and sets a scene, so all you need are your tabletop, candles, and maybe some plants or fruit to create a centerpiece. Flowers are the cherry on top!
Is there a certain dish or cocktail you’re known for serving amongst your friends?
I don’t have a signature dish or cocktail, but I do take pride when I serve anything from my garden— which mostly happens in the spring, summer, and fall—but I pull out some goodies that I’ve pickled or preserved for winter meals which can make things special.
"It could be pretty and the food could be good, but if there’s no laughter, joy or ease, it’s just a dinner party."
- KATE BERRY, CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER AT DOMINO
Tarajia Morrell
How would you describe your hostessing style?
A true combination of polished + laid back. I absolutely relish an excuse to get dressed up, to get out the "good silver", but I also keep my wine and beverages in an ice-filled corrugated steel bucket and expect that it will contain a mishmash of potables — Champagne, Pet Nat, wine, mezcal, and tequila. I firmly believe in the "Bring A Bottle" mandate, and that in this day and age and amongst my friends, everyone is happy to contribute and is part of what makes a good party: excess.
During the holidays, do you have a specific dish that you love to serve?
For small gatherings, Roe Caviar, lovely cheeses, if dinner, then something simple, like a roast chicken, whole fish, or stew. If it’s a big party, then it’s a bone in ham with biscuits and mustards that guests can graze on all evening. I’ve come to the hard-won conclusion that the best “big party" food includes some form of small sandwiches.
What’s your hostessing philosophy?
It’s said that you shouldn’t try a new recipe or dish when you are having guests over. I emphatically disagree! Any excuse to cook is a good one and the people you host are lucky to be invited! Real friends care far more about the act of gathering and merrymaking than they do about the perfection of what’s on the plate. My mother reminds me: “Never apologize when hosting.”
In terms of a tablescape—what do you always have on the table? Any specific seating rules?
If you’re sitting down to dinner, make sure you have extra wine on the table, ready to re-fill glasses. Candles, cloth napkins, Maldon sea salt, fresh pepper, and cold water. I don’t think I’ve ever used place cards for a home-cooked meal. I seat people based on where they will be most comfortable on my funny banquette...and who I most want to flirt with. I always seat myself in the most uncomfortable seat with the easiest access to the kitchen!
Does your young daughter share your love of food? Any anecdotes you'd be willing to share if so?
She did as a yearling, but now she’s two and completely fickle and defiant. At a year she was eating crab claws from the shell and spice-rich tagines. Now she turns her nose up at things she loved the day before. Thankfully, she still seems to love salmon roe and whitefish salad, both excellent party treats from Russ & Daughters!!
"[When it comes to hosting] I absolutely relish an excuse to get dressed up, to get out the 'good silver', but I also firmly believe in the ‘bring a bottle’ mandate. This is part of what makes a good party: excess.”
- TARAJIA MORRELL, WRITER
Eleonore Toulin
How would you describe your hostessing style?
I make sure that Italian jams from the 1970s are always playing and that everyone has enough wine!
What sparked your interest in food?
To me, food is nurturing, and I’ve always loved the opportunity to take care of people.
What kinds of outfits do you gravitate towards when you’re hosting?
I will admit that I don’t look for comfort while hosting because, to be honest, I want to look cute.
What are three things that are always in your fridge?
Butter, of course, homemade chicken broth, and yuzu kosho.
“To me, food is nurturing, and I’ve always loved the opportunity to take care of people.”
- ELEONORE TOULIN, MODEL, PHOTOGRAPHER, AND PRIVATE CHEF
What’s your favorite restaurant in Paris? And in LA?
I have so many favorites, but if I have to pick a winner, it would be Chez Georges. It’s the first thing I want when I get to Paris. In LA, it’d have to be Din Tai Fung in Arcadia. It’s so good I order it at home once a week.
Is there a specific dish among your friends that you're known for?
My friends know me for my famous lasagna and cannelés (a French treasure).